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Audi R8 Radio Installation Package. Plug and play converter 3 Plug and play converter. Backup Camera 6 Backup Camera. Tools 9 Tools. Choose your radio 10 Choose your radio. Additional information Reviews 1 Weight.
May 19, Full on max stars plus 1 more, truly fantastic Uploaded image s :. Related products. Audi A4 Radio Installation Package. Privacy Settings. We use cookies to enhance your experience while using our website.
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Tape it off. Instead, three way wire the blue wire from the head unit harness to the red metra harness, and the antenna adapter. Bose vs non-Bose speaker wiring: Non-bose cars power the front speakers through an internal amp in the stock head unit.
You must connect the gray and white wires on the metra harness to the front speaker output wires on your head unit harness if you have a non-Bose car. The rear speakers use preamp outputs, so you will need to use the RCA filter and the rear speaker outputs on your head unit.
In other words: directly wire the gray and white wires for the front speakers, then use RCA and one filter for the rears. Close up of the metra harness with the non-Bose front speaker wires: Close up on the Pioneer harness. Notice the gray and white wires, those are what you connect. The green and violet wires are for rear speakers, but in all B6 cars the rear speakers are powered by an external amp, so tape those off. This is how it looks when wired for a non-Bose car: This is how it should be taped off if you have Bose.
Each wire capped off individually, then taped into a bundle: Bose harness, ready to go: Notice that there are additional wires on your head unit harness. The green is the parking brake ground switch that must be wired later to allow you to play DVDs and to set up Bluetooth connections.
The purple is a rear view camera switch, which is used if you wire a camera. Head unit prep: The Metra kit must be prepared for the head unit, first by removing the center bar that is used only for single din installs. Then slide in the head unit, snap in the thin plastic surround on the front, and attach the head unit with three screws per side. Depending on your head unit the screws might be in different spots: Now, out to the car!
Last edited by lookaught; at AM. Next remove the kick panel under the steering column. There are three bolts: one behind the fuse panel cover, two underneath. All are 8mm. Once removed, pull the panel straight back toward the rear to disengage the tabs that are below the belt line trim, and wiggle it out. You must disconnect the OBD port and the lighting. Also remove the glovebox. For some reason, Audi chose to attach the glovebox with military IED grade bolting.
There are total of nine 8mm bolts: two or three underneath, and I think 7 inside the glovebox. Beware that once they are removed the glovebox will fall, so I suggest removing the center bolt inside the glovebox last. No glovebox Next, remove the radio. Insert the keys with the point on the outside, and the rounded parts facing inwards.
The secret to removing the radio is to move one side at a time, do NOT just pull straight out. Right side out a little, left side out a little, repeat. What it should look like when the radio is out. The antenna is tucked out of sight: Wire the microphone: I opted to put it above the rear view mirror, and ran the wire under the headliner to the passenger side A pillar, and down. No pics of this, sorry. Tap the end into fuse 36 with a fuse tap. This photo is from before I tapped I have other things tapped as well, your stock fuse panel will have no other wires or taps like mine.
At this point, I noticed it was past noon. So: Refreshed, start plugging in the harness you made. Two plug into the black Metra adapter, one is for the RCA preouts in the red Metra adapter, and then the antenna. If you have a Bose car, it will look like so, with two filters. You do not need to ground the brown wires. If you have a non-Bose car, only one filter and it will be connected to the green and violet RCAs.
Put a towel down over the center console to avoid scratches, and start plugging in the head unit. For non-Bose, there will only be one set of RCAs plugged into the rear speaker preouts. This is a photo of a Bose car setup. Also plug in the antenna adapter, and the microphone. It should look like so: Reconnect the battery, turn the key, and power it up! It will be a jumbled mess: At this point, test everything.
Power, each speaker, make sure the unit dims when you turn on the vehicle lights, ground out the parking brake cable and test the DVD and Bluetooth, and test the antenna by using FM radio. Make a hand free phone call, stream some music, etc. Hi all, Im new to this forum and I am seeking some advice!!!
I got all the necessary adaptors etc and fitted it successfully apart from one thing I cant seem to get it to work I have used a Celsus AA Dual fakra antenna adaptor, I have connected the blue wire from the antenna adaptor to the switch live wire. Please can someone offer some advice it would be much appreciated?! Hi Alan. This has the standard DIN aerial socket and the removed Concert stock HU had the dual fakra, so I bought Dual fakra antenna adaptor tried with and without the inline power thing but in both cases, when I turn my lights on I get a whining noise side lights and main beam, and with the engine off.
If I pull the aerial lead out, the whining stops Also, looks like I'm picking up about 3 stations on FM -- Radio-2, and two local stations -- nothing else. The aerials are wired into the rear side windows. Questions for Alan -- do you notice any noise when you turn lights on? Also, what type of aerial do you have. Has anyone replaced a head unit where fakra to DIN is needed and had any issues?
I tried running a jump lead from battery negative to the radio case -- no difference. What did improve slightly was connecting the jump lead to the ground of the fakra twin socket where I plu in my twin cable adapter that then goes to the radio. It just seems to me that adapter is picking up the noise I tried disconnecting the earth from the aerial lead plugging into the radio whinning sound gone but radio reception even worse Obvioulsy plugging the aerial into the stock Concert HU it works a dream.
Any other suggestions welcome -- maybe I'll need to fit a roof aerail and cable in new? Thanks -- sorry for waffling a bit and jumping on Alan's post but seemed similar to my problem although the whining not reported. I have ordered another fakra to DIN adapter tha has no cable although this'll only connect one of the two aerials, it'll remove any cable issue between the two connectors as there isn't any.
I should have that in a couple of days and will report back. AndyMac Active Member. Have you tried earthing the chassis of the HU to the chassis of the car? You have a ground loop which is causing the alternator whine, i.
You need to level the earth by getting a decent earth strap onto the HU. Hi Andy. I tagged a cable from a bolt visible by the fuse array to the chassis but that made no difference at all. How can it be alternator whine if the engine isn't running? I'm suspecting some cross talk somehow with the CAN Bus, but struggling to isolate it: but it's definitely coming in via the aerial lead -- fakra to male connector cable.
If I disconnect the fakra adapter -- ground the cable connector to the fakra cable of the car -hope that's understandable -- meaning I just connect hold the outta shell of the adapater cable to the outer exposed part of the fakra connector of the car so as to just connect the shielding through to the radio, then I get the whine I agree though, and hope it's a grounding issue -- just need to determine a good place to find a real chassis ground and feed that to the radio multi-core cable required for that I expect.
I'm new to this forum -- have to see if I could attach a file -- I could record the sound for those interested Thanks Andy. That'll be interference from the Xenons. Also what adapter are you using to plug into the Bose amp.
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