First is the receiver adapter that attaches to the receiver. The second is the detachable carrier. The detachable carrier is the six rings of aluminum that hold your shotgun shells. Tube-fed shotguns offer low capacity, and the side saddle offers an off-the-cuff reload to prevent you from going Winchester. What happens when your side runs dry? Reloading off-web gear and pouches takes more time than a side-saddle. What if you could instantly reload your side-saddle?
You can pop the QDs off the C and reload the receiver adapter with a fully loaded carrier. You can do so when you run dry or when you need to switch ammo types. You can mix from buck to slugs or to breaching rounds instantly. These detachable carriers fit inside AR-sized magazine pouches rather easily too. I pulled and pulled, but it stayed put. Shells are squeezed in tightly, and an internal stainless steel spring creates positive retention for each shell.
Retrieving shells for reloads takes a dedicated tug and not a soft touch. However, the shells are staying put. The QD-C carrier is as premium as it looks.
The universal variant will fit Benelli guns, s, Mossberg SPX model, and likely most common pump-action and semi-autos. If you want the best side-saddle on the market, then you need to pop over to Aridus Industries. Was able to score a handguard so this is the last piece of the puzzle. How hard would it have been to include an MSRP? If I had some idea whether to even consider it, I might. This company needs to worry less about new product, and focus more on effective, timely production.
Last Updated: April 9, References. Jonas has over 20 years of experience managing bicycle retail stores and has operated Huckleberry Bicycles since Huckleberry Bicycles specializes in servicing, repairing, and custom building road, cross, gravel, touring, folding, and e-bikes. Jonas was also previously sat on the Board of Directors for Bike East Bay, a bicycle-advocacy non-profit organization based in Oakland, California.
There are 17 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 15, times. While your bike probably came with a stock saddle, it may feel uncomfortable to sit on if you go on a long ride. Once you have the new saddle attached to your frame, take some time to position it so you have the proper form when you ride! Look for a bolt or knob where the saddle connects to the frame and turn it counterclockwise.
Tip: Your saddle may have numbers or measurements printed on the rails. Take a picture of your saddle when you have it in the right position so you can use it as a reference later on. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy.
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Unscrew the clamp bolts on the bottom of the saddle. Locate the 1 or 2 hex bolts connected to the metal clamp directly underneath your saddle.
Fit a hex wrench into the bolt and turn it counterclockwise by 2—3 rotations. Loosen the bolts just enough so you can move the metal clamp around.
Lift and turn the top clamp to remove the saddle. Look for the thin metal rails that run down from the saddle and go underneath the metal clamp on the seat post. Once you move the clamp out of the way, lift your old saddle straight up to remove it. Clean the dirt and residue off the clamp with a damp paper towel.
Wet a paper towel with clean water or isopropyl alcohol and use it to wipe the clamp down. Make sure you wipe both the top and bottom pieces of the clamp.
Part 2. Grease the bolts and new saddle rails with bike lube. Turn the bolts in the clamp to distribute the lube more evenly. Position the rails so they sit inside of the channels to ensure you can easily move your saddle around later on. Reposition the top clamp so it fits over the rails. Hold your new saddle in place with your non-dominant hand. Use your dominant hand to grab the top half of the clamp. Turn the clamp so it wraps around the saddle rails and presses down against the bottom half.
Line up the bolt holes on the top with the ones on the bottom so you can screw the bolts back in. Tighten the clamp bolts to hold the saddle in position. Use your hex wrench to turn the clamp bolt clockwise. Part 3. Find the length of your inseam by measuring from the floor to your groin. Pull the level up as far as you comfortably can. Ask a helper to measure from the floor to the top of the level to find your inseam measurement.
Then, measure from the floor to the mark.
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